David Chang has some thoughts on the future of food. Also the present. And, while we're counting, the past. Let's just make it easy: David Chang has some thoughts.
If this surprises you, you haven't been paying attention for the past decade-plus, ever since Momofuku Noodle Bar catapulted Chang from disillusioned line cook to culinary empire-builder (and GQ columnist). He has made a kind of public performance art out of agonizing over the state of dining and his own place in it. Like the Momofuku umbrella itself—which contains both a Michelin-starred tasting-menu restaurant in Momofuku Ko and a fast-food-chicken-sandwich operation in Fuku (not to mention the Italian-Asian fusion of its latest outpost, Nishi)—Chang can be a mass of contradictions, by turns idealistic and cynical, angry and generous, optimistic and (somewhat more often) a voice of gloom and doom. He has become one of our most engaged, daring, wide-ranging, and exasperating thinkers about what we eat, how we eat it, and where it all might be going.
Recently, GQ asked Chang to convene a diverse group of voices for a conversation on just those subjects. He chose well. (See “Let's Meet Our Panelists, Shall We?” below.) Of course, to talk about “the future of food” is to tackle much more than simply what goes on a plate. Gathered at Chang's New York cocktail bar, Booker and Dax, over a lunch provided by the neighboring Momofuku Ssäm Bar, our panel was more than up to the task. Read full article here